Hello everyone, and welcome to another of my reviews. In this article, I’ll review a new suit commission from the local tailor The Gentlemen’s Atelier.
If you haven’t already done so, read Part 1 of the review here, where I chronicled my experience commissioning a suit with The Gentlemen’s Atelier. I’ve since collected my garments – let’s take a closer look at the fit and finish of the suit.
The Gentlemen’s Atelier – Grey Suit
Despite its relative affordability, the Gentlemen’s Atelier employs a basted fitting process, translating to a better fit.
Firstly, the jacket is the right length, ending near the middle of my palms. The sleeve length is good too, ending near my wristbone and exposing a quarter-inch of shirt cuff. More importantly, the shoulders lie flat without any bunching of the surrounding fabric, which is impressive given my significantly sloped shoulders. Furthermore, there’s a slight tapering around the waist, giving me a slimmer look. There are also no shoulder divots – one of the cardinal sins of tailoring.
The sleeves drape nicely with little wrinkling, which is not easy given that the sleeve pitch depends on the individual’s posture. This highlights the benefits of a basted fit, where the tailor can adjust for individual characteristics. The jacket also lies neatly on the shirt collar without an unsightly collar gap.
I’m also pleased with the drape of the back, which turned out cleaner than average. The back was an area that Nick paid particular attention to, and it paid dividends in the fit.
My only complaint is the fit of the trousers, which I feel has room for improvement. The trousers are cut slightly on the tighter side, resulting in a less-than-ideal drape.
The Gentlemen’s Atelier – Workmanship and Style
Let’s now take a closer look at the workmanship and styling of the suit.
As a recap, I went with The Gentlemen’s Atelier’s entry-level Tecron range as I wanted to test the waters before committing further. Though not as comfortable as a mixed wool suit, the Tecron fabric isn’t all that terrible, and felt about as comfortable as a standard Benjamin Barker jacket. I know I’ve previously said to avoid synthetic fabrics like the plague, but synthetic fabrics have improved by leaps and bounds over the past few years (especially since COVID). Make no mistake – if you’re looking for a daily wearer, stick to a 100% wool fabric, or at least a wool blend. But if you’re an occasional wearer (perhaps for a wedding, or an event), the Tecron fabrics are a viable economical option.
That being said, the medium grey shade is admittedly a stylistically conservative choice. To inject some flair into the look, we went for slightly wider 3.5-inch lapels, as well as a red in-built pocket square that provides visual contrast to the otherwise monotone look.
On the other hand, the subtle horn buttons ensure the look remains professional and subdued.
Despite its affordability, the jacket features surgeon cuffs – a hallmark of quality tailoring. The horn sleeve buttons also complemented nicely with my Omega Speedmaster “Hot Chocolate”.
Nick said that he would create a custom casino-themed lining for me, and I must say it juxtaposes nicely with the medium grey fabric. The bright red is certainly very auspicious, with the design including a variety of popular casino games. It’s certainly an eye-catching lining, and one that reflects the bespoke nature of custom tailoring.
Other personalised touches include having my initials monogrammed on the shirt cuff, in the font and colour of my choosing. I think it turned out rather well, with the silver stitching complementing the grey suit nicely.
For the trousers, we went for simple – but elegant – details: an extended waistband, single pleats, slanted pockets, and bronze side adjusters. These details are not immediately eye-catching, but instead subtly elevate the trousers.
All in all, I like the medium grey suit from The Gentlemen’s Atelier. While perhaps on the safer side of my suit commissions, it gets the basics right, and is eminently versatile. I can see myself wearing the suit in more corporate settings – there isn’t much to complain about.
The Gentlemen’s Atelier – Scallop Jacket
After being sufficiently satisfied with the grey suit, I returned to The Gentlemen’s Atelier, this time to commission something more adventurous.
One day, I noticed Chin working on an original jacket design, which he calls the “Scallop” jacket. After showing me a render, he asked if I would be interested in making one (I suppose he needed a test subject) – and of course, I said yes.
The jacket gets its name from its curvy scallop-esque edges, immediately catching the eye. Meant to be worn unbuttoned, the Scallop jacket functions like an overshirt, making it great for more casual occasions.
For the fabric, I chose a lovely shade of deep green – it’s different without being too out there. As the Scallop jacket isn’t something I’ll wear often, I again decided upon the Tecron range to keep it wallet-friendly.
The jacket is full of intriguing details – such as having slightly slitted sleeves and cream-coloured lining – that add sophistication to the overall look.
I was surprised to find that the dark green Scallop jacket is more versatile than I expected, pairing well with a variety of outfits, including the grey trousers I had previously commissioned from The Gentlemen’s Atelier. This makes it a great layering piece, despite the unique design.
The Scallop jacket is also unstructured, resulting in comfortable wear. Even though it’s made out of synthetic Tecron fabric, the unstructured, lightly lined nature of the jacket makes it relatively breathable, and a pragmatic option in Singapore’s humid weather.
Conclusion – so The Gentlemen’s Atelier “shiok” or not?
Overall, The Gentlemen’s Atelier proved adept in delivering both a standard work suit, as well as more stylistically adventurous garments. The grey suit – though seemingly unassuming – fits well, and features several striking elements (my favourite is the red casino custom lining) that prevent it from becoming dull. On the other hand, the Scallop jacket is a smart way to change things up, especially for situations where you want to stand out, but not like a sore thumb. The dark green shade also makes it easy to integrate with one’s current wardrobe, mixing practicality with style.
Suits at The Gentlemen’s Atelier start from $599. Just for my readers, The Gentlemen’s Atelier is offering a 10% discount on all suiting purchases (not applicable on add-ons and additional charges). Simply make your appointment via this booking link here to enjoy the discount. After the discount, my commissioned grey suit would cost a mere $539. And despite the special design, the “scallop” jacket is also priced very reasonably – Nick quoted me just $450.
Book an appointment with The Gentlemen’s Atelier here.
Location: 41 Temple Street, #03-01, Singapore 058586
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P.P.P.P.S Shiok is a common word Singaporeans use to express admiration or approval. As of 2016, you can find the definition of the word in the Oxford English Dictionary.
